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You'll Feel Like You're Handling a Classic Road Racing Machine When You Sit Behind the Peppy Powerplant in This Marine Hot Rod... A True E-Ticket Ride |
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Tiny Might |
| A 12'
mid engine runabout |
| Build in
Plywood |
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Fun on the water with the family will never be the same...
TINY MIGHT may aptly be called a marine "hot rod". Only 12' long, but this little boat packs a lot in a small package. The hull is light and compact for easy trailering and launching, but capable of towing skiers at a good clip.
She turns on a dime and gives you change. When on a plane, the water breaks so far to the rear that you have the sensation of being entirely out of the water. Power comes from a compact mid-located engine for optimum performance. You'll think you are handling a classic road racing machine when you sit behind a peppy powerplant in your own TINY MIGHT. The aft seating location gives a great sensation of speed, and yet is located at the smoothest riding point in the boat. Plus, there's room for a friend... if he's not too timid.
Tiny Might Notes |
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| Line Drawings
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Motor |
The plans show a Gray Phantom Four - 45 hp, 380 lbs.
We consider 60 hp about average.
Prefer weight not to exceed 300 lbs.
The original test model used a Crosley.
V-8's should not be used.
Like our Cracker Box, these boats were usually run without transmissions in racing. Because of the diminutive size of the Tiny Might there is usually not room enough for a transmission. Because of the scarcity of conversion parts for small engines, powering this boat requires some ingenuity. The biggest challenge is coming up with water cooled manifolds. In a boat, motors work much harder than in a car and tend to get hotter. Air cooling is not practical in a performance boat like Tiny Might. Hot manifolds can cause injury and pose a fire hazard. |
Equipment |
From Instructions.
SHAFT: A 1" stainless steel propeller shaft with a standard SAE taper is used.
PROPELLER: Propeller 10" in pitch or to suit the motor.
SHAFT LOG: The shaft log will be a 1" self-aligning, rubber necked type, set in bedding compound and screwed to the keel with round head 1" #8 screws.
STRUT: The strut should be of high tensile bronze with rubber or micarta bearing. The degree of angle will vary with the motor used, however, it will be in the 14o to 16o range.
RUDDER ASSEMBLY: A rudder of the unbalanced type as shown in the drawings has proven ideal. A rudder stuffing box is used where the rudder goes through the bottom of the boat. A collar, set screwed to the rudder shaft, is used to keep the rudder in place. A standard tiller arm should be used on the rudder shaft.
STEERING: The steering is preferably single cable, push-pull, or equal type. The steering may be mounted on either the port or starboard side. Best practice is to place the steering on the "torque side" (the side toward which the prop is turning).
MOTOR CONTROLS: All motor controls: throttle, shift, and ignition, should be brought forward convenient to the driver. A minimum instrument panel should include tachometer, oil pressure gauge and temperature gauge.
MOTOR: The motor should not exceed 300 lbs. The motor is positioned as shown in the drawings. A layout should be made to determine the exact shaft angle and location to drill the hole for the propeller shaft. If unfamiliar with inboard installation we recommend INBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATIONS, available from GLEN-L.
FUEL TANK: The fuel tank shown is 9" in diameter and 30" long. This tank holds a little more than 8 gallons of fuel. Any tank however, that will fit in the space could be used. The tank should be securely fastened to the motor stringers with metal straps 1/8" x 1", padded with neoprene or equivalent. The filler pipe should lead to a flush deck filler. An overflow vent of at least 3/8" in diameter will lead overboard, located lower than the fill but higher than the highest point in the tank. |
Typical underwater hardware |
The part numbers are from our Inboard Hardware catalog, except the prop.
| ITEM |
DESCRIPTION |
QUAN |
| 90-130 |
#2 Strut-14 deg |
1 |
| 90-352 |
BJ Bearing |
1 |
| 90-195 |
Shaft Log |
1 |
| 90-223 |
Stuffing Box-1" |
1 |
| 90-818 |
Clamps for above |
2 |
| 90-232 |
Hose for above |
1 |
| 14-293 |
Fin-Alum |
1 |
| 90-014 |
Wedge Rudder |
1 |
| 90-103 |
Rudder Stuf Box 1 1/8" |
1 |
| 90-033 |
Rudder Post Bracket 1 1/8" |
1 |
| 90-401 |
Safety Collar-Rudder |
1 |
| 90-736 |
Prop Shaft-1"* |
1 |
| 90-723 |
Prop Nut Kit |
1 |
| Special Prop: |
10"x?"x1" Left Hand Nibral, Cupped** |
1 |
*Take shaft length from boat.
**This prop will be cut from a 12", pitch to match motor, and
cupped. |
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Built by Ron Campbell |
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Built by Dan Hilton |
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Built by E. L. Fletcher (Outboard version not detailed in plans) |
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Built by Robert Hankins |
| Characteristics |
| Length overall |
12'-0" |
| Beam |
5'-1" |
| Hull depth |
24" |
| Average passengers |
1-2 |
| Hull weight (approx.) |
250 lbs. |
Hull type: Vee bottom, hard chine hull, developed for sheet plywood planking.
Power: Centrally located inboard motor to 300 lbs.
Can the hull be extended or shortened? Yes. Up to 10% by re-spacing the frames from the aft end of the stem to the transom a proportional amount. We do not recommend increasing the beam.
Trailer: Designed for use with Glen-L Series 750/1000 boat trailer plans.
COMPLETE PLANS include FULL SIZE PATTERNS for stem, breasthook, and half-section patterns for the frames and transom. Includes instructions, Bill of Materials, and Fastening Schedule.
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